History
In the 1920s, hundreds of thousands of Poles emigrated to the West in search of work – to Germany, particularly the Ruhr region. But they also went to France, for example to the large coal mines of northern France, as well as to work in agriculture. Henri Sélèque came to France from Poland in 1925 at the age of six. After the war, he married Francoise Bagnost from Pierry and moved to a farm in Boursault on the Marne. His father-in-law, Jean Bagnost, had co-founded the Cooperative de Pierry in 1956 – in 1965/66, he and Henri planted their first vines together. In 1969, Henri Sélèque bottled his first wines. Since 1974, he has been supported by his son Richard, a qualified oenologist, and his brother Jean. Both started families and had children. As they too were involved in viticulture, Champagne Sélèque was split up in 2007. That year, Richard Sélèque founded Sélèque R & JM.
Meanwhile, his son Jean-Marc, who had studied viticulture and oenology, gained experience in California’s Napa Valley and Australia’s Yarra Valley. There, he came to appreciate the use of state-of-the-art technology, but also recognised the trend towards standardised wine production. In 2008, he returned to his father’s estate and became a partner as early as 2009. He increasingly steers the business towards organic farming, and since 2010, partly towards biodynamic methods as well. In 2012, Jean-Marc Sélèque marries Oriane Rousselot. In 2013, they launched the JMSélèque brand, and in 2015, the couple and the company move from the town centre to a state-of-the-art production facility on the Pierry bypass. The following year, Jean-Marc took over the management of the champagne house. In 2018, the winery became a négociant, also buying grapes from mainly organic winegrowers in the villages where the house is already established, particularly Épernay, Moussy and Pierry, in order to enhance the quality of the Cuvée Solessence.
Style
Champagnes from JMSélèque are primarily from the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay. Situated between the Marne Valley proper and the Côte des Blancs, these vineyards stretch in a V-shape around the Cubry, a tributary of the Marne. The home village of Pierry and the neighbouring village of Moussy are at the heart of the estate, but the family also owns vineyards in Boursault, Mardeuil and Dizy-sur-Marne, in Épernay and also in Vertus in the south of the Côte des Blancs (a total of 48 plots). Jean-Marc Sélèque, in any case, is keen to highlight the enormous geological diversity in the Cubry valley. For Meunier, Chardonnay and even Pinot Noir, there are micro-terroirs here where the full potential of the grape variety can unfold. The wines are therefore primarily shaped in the vineyard, through organic, and in some cases biodynamic, but non-certified cultivation. Furthermore: mass selection of vines, cover crops, avoidance of soil compaction, preservation of soil life, careful pruning and low yields of ripe grapes (but with a low pH).
Jean-Marc Sélèque’s primary aim is to produce ‘Champagne de terroir’, so he vinifies the cuvées naturally by plot. For pressing, he uses a latest-generation Coquard press, which offers exceptional precision and allows a cooling of the must immediately during pressing. The wines are then gently fermented at low temperatures using indigenous yeasts. In addition to stainless steel, wood is being used more and more frequently. The Vins clairs above the Solessence range now all ferment in oak barrels of various sizes. A few amphorae and glass wine globes (for Coteaux Champenois ) supplement this. Malolactic fermentation takes place regularly, not least because the wines are only minimally sulphured. The tirage takes place late in July after the harvest. The duration of bottle fermentation has been steadily extended in recent years. The Brut Nature, the magnums and the late releases known as ‘2ème Lecture’ in particular remain on the lees for an above-average length of time. Natural corks are increasingly being used instead of crown caps. The wine is neither fined nor filtered, and the dosage is in the low Extra Brut range or omitted entirely.
Portfolio
The house’s current range comprises ten champagnes, two Coteaux Champenois and one Ratafia. The Solessence range accounts for more than 80 per cent of total production. These are champagnes d’assemblage, a true expression of the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay. Solessence and Solessence Nature are initially identical (50Ch|40M|10PN, 60% stainless steel, 40% wood, 50% base vintage/50% Réserve perpétuelle); the latter matures on the lees for three years instead of two and receives no dosage. In the Solessence Rosé, 10% Meunier with skin contact and 5% red still wine complete the cuvée. Quintette Blanc de Blancs marks the start of the ‘musical’ cuvées, which have a long tradition in the family. This is a blend of five special Chardonnay plots (including Vertus and Pierry), aged exclusively in wood and more ‘vintage-true’ with just 20% reserves from a 2012 solera. Partition (72Ch|14M|14PN), also aged in wood, comprises seven plots. It sits at the top of the portfolio in terms of price, particularly as a 2ème Lecture with significantly longer bottle fermentation.
Then there are four single-vineyard champagnes, all from the Premier Cru Pierry and one for each grape variety, with the Meunier declinated as a rosé as well. Soliste Chardonnay comes from the two neighbouring plots Les Tartières and Les Porgeons, where the chalk begins just 70cm below the surface. In contrast, Soliste Pinot Noir from Les Gayères comes from clay soils with a high flint and limestone content. Soliste Meunier from Les Gouttes d’Or originates from the oldest vineyards owned by Sélèque—some planted as far back as 1951—where a vein of Campanian limestone lies close to the surface. Finally, Soliste Meunier Rosé (produced by maceration) is from Les Charmiers. There, as the estate notes, “orange-coloured clay from the Sparnacian, rich in limestone and flint” forms the topsoil, whilst the subsoil lies significantly deeper here. Then there is the Coteaux Champenois Blanc Perpétuel (85% Chardonnay, 15% Petit Meslier!), a multi-vintage. And the single-varietal Pinot Noir still wine Pierry Rouge (vintage) from Les Gouttes d’Or.
Tasting
Solessence Extra-Brut (deg.12/24) is based on the hot 2022 vintage. You notice that. On the nose, notes of lemon tart and brioche; on the palate, creamy, with ripe, soft acidity and a fine, gentle effervescence, yet also complex and spicy (89p.). Solessence Rosé Extra-Brut (deg.11/24) presents itself with a light salmon colour and coppery reflection, featuring delicate mandarin and orange aromas. It impresses with subtle phenolic notes, very pure fruit and a touch of elegance, and is best enjoyed on its own (91p.). Solessence Brut Nature I was only able to taste at the trade fair in Paris. From my notes, only the high score has survived: 92p. The Blanc de Blancs Quintette Extra-Brut (deg. 11/24), presumably from the cool base vintage of 2021, is noticeably tighter and more purist. Apricot aromas, sourdough and a hint of woody spice dominate the nose. The impression of chalk and a touch of saltiness comes from vines that are, in parts, very old. A champagne that gains significantly in complexity with aeration (92p.).
For the Soliste range, importer Champagne Characters had provided me with some older vintages. The 2020s had already been presented in Paris (more here). Soliste Meunier Extra-Brut from Les Gouttes D’Or, 2019, was disgorged in April 2024. It ranks among the outstanding Meuniers I have recently had the pleasure of tasting. It has a darker character than the Chardonnays from JMSélèque, with notes of red gooseberries and subtle woody aromas. Despite a low dosage of 2g/l, there is a wonderful fruit sweetness to be felt, brilliantly balanced by the superb acidity (93p.). With this wine, if not before, Jean-Marc Sélèque proves himself to be a great stylist!
Soliste Chardonnay Extra-Brut (see above, disgorged 5/2023) actually dates from 2018. Its bouquet is ‘sunnier’, almost exotic with papaya and young pineapple, but also sourdough, vanilla and a hint of mustard seeds in brine. On the palate, initially quite sweet and fruity, multi-layered and with a rather creamy texture. After a day of aeration, however, it becomes significantly more precise and focused (92p.). The Soliste Pinot Noir Extra-Brut from 2019 (deg. 1/2024) was initially very restrained. It is the least fruit-forward and darkest champagne of the trio, with aromas of roast almonds and rye sourdough. On the palate, it is vinous, medium-bodied and precise, with a lovely, elegant tension. A champagne that absolutely needs wide glasses to unfold (93p.).
The highlight was ultimately Partition 2019 Extra-Brut (deg. 11/24). Notes of pear, vanilla and rye sourdough, accompanied by a distinctive yet well-integrated influence of oak. Powerful and multi-layered, with lovely acidity. Above all, however, it possesses a quality unusual for champagne: depth! (94–95p.).
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