History
Champagne Esterlin is the brand of a cooperative founded in 1948. It originated in the village of Mancy in the Cubry Valley, in the southern hills of Épernay. The archives list the Fransoret, Dehu, and Cadestin families as the founders; the cooperative quickly grew to 29 members with a total vineyard area of 23 hectares. In the 1960s, the first products were marketed under the brand’s own name. In 1972, a solera or “permanent reserve” was established. It is possible that around the same time, the members stopped using malolactic fermentation. In any case, the earliest surviving records from 1976 already mention this. The Esterlin brand was born in 1983 — named after an old French currency from which the British term “sterling” derives. In 1994, the brand moved its headquarters to the historic Avenue de Champagne in Épernay. To this day, it remains the only champagne cooperative of its kind! This went to the heads of some of those in charge in the early 2000s. In any case, the company ran into serious trouble for a time due to irregularities.
In 2005, Éric Potié took over as chairman of the cooperative. The long-time president of the Federation of Champagne Cooperatives (FCVC) stabilized the company and gathered a team of competent employees around him. In particular, he appointed Frank Lesterlin as general manager in 2018. Lesterlin had leadership experience at major houses in Champagne such as Duval-Leroy and Laurent-Perrier, as well as in Burgundy, such as Louis Jadot. He spearheaded the qualitative repositioning of the champagnes. He strengthened the brand through selective distribution, for example as president of the newly created distribution network Champ’ by Coop, which unites small but high-quality champagne cooperatives. In 2017, a partnership began with the neighboring Vinay cooperative (which did not have its own brand). In 2025, the merger to form Coopérative Vinay Mancy was completed. That same year, the house scored a major coup with the appointment of Gabrielle Malagu (see photo) as cellar master. She was actually on the verge of taking this position at Maison Gosset, the oldest wine house in Champagne.
Style
The brand’s origins lie in the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay. This is a region that lies in the shadow of the nearby Côte des Blancs but holds some significance due to its proximity to Épernay. Traditionally, Chardonnay and Meunier dominate. The exposure determines the ratio. Depending on whether the vineyards are located more to the west, near the Marne, or to the east toward the Côte des Blancs. At the Mancy cooperative, located further southeast, Chardonnay was the dominant variety—which enabled the development of the Esterlin brand. Vinay, on the other hand, is more Meunier-focused. With 173 members and 95 hectares of vineyards, Vinay was almost the same size as Mancy, which had 228 members and 118 hectares. In any case, the cooperative’s joint vineyard holdings are not only around Épernay but also in the Sézannais region and the western Marne Valley near Chapelle-Monthodon. Here, as in Mancy, the cooperative also maintains a pressing center. Meanwhile, a large portion of the grapes are certified as sustainably farmed.
The house’s style, aside from the two main grape varieties, is dominated by the two aforementioned techniques: first, the solera system (in stainless steel) as the source of the reserve wines, and second, the halting of malolactic fermentation. Both measures were introduced at an unusually early stage. Especially in the cool 1970s, it took some courage to decide against “malo.” Esterlin champagnes compensate for the lack of texture in the leaner malic acid through an above-average length of bottle aging. Thanks to global warming, Esterlin can finally afford low dosage levels. This is, of course, a style that has little to do with the big brands and more to do with artisanal champagnes, as it involves taking greater risks. The use of stainless steel, on the other hand, links the house more closely to a classic-modern flavor profile—with the exception of the Cuvée Cléo, which also utilizes 228-liter Burgundy barrels and 350-liter muids. There are no mono-crus, although some cuvées come from very clearly defined terroirs.
Portfolio
Esterlin’s entry-level line is called “Éclat,” meaning “shine.” Brut Éclat is Meunier-dominated (30% Chardonnay | 10% Pinot Noir | 60% Meunier) and comes from all three regions where the company owns vineyards. It contains about 30% reserve wines from the solera, and its bottle aging period is a remarkable 58 months. The Rosé Éclat, with 93% from a single vintage (currently 2021), is almost a vintage—and is made from equal parts red and white grapes (50%Ch|20%PN|30%M). It is created as a blend of 17% Meunier still wines. The non-vintage Blanc de Blanc Éclat marks the beginning of Esterlin’s line of single-varietal Chardonnay champagnes. Here, the bottle aging period is already eight years! In addition to three vintage champagnes, the “Authenthique” line also includes the Ex-Solera Extra Brut, which is particularly influenced by the “réserve pérpétuelle” dating back to 1972. It features the same Meunier-dominated blend as the Brut Éclat, but contains 40 percent base wines sourced from the Solera. In addition, the base vintage (currently 2013) is significantly older and the dosage lower.
Pur Meunier Extra-Brut is the first vintage, currently from 2019. A Blanc de Blanc Millésimé Extra-Brut follows, currently from 2014. Here, the grapes come from the area around Mancy. There is also a Brut Nature Millésimé. Most recently, 2012 followed 2009, both with different blends: 34%Ch|66%M for the former, 42%Ch|20%PN|38%M for the latter. The Cléo Blanc de Blanc Brut cuvée has been Esterlin’s prestige cuvée since the 2010 vintage; it is the successor to the Elsévia. Cléo used to be available in other versions as well, such as a rosé, but today the production is limited to a vintage Blanc de Blancs. It is the only cuvée at Esterlin that uses wood; specifically, half is aged in barrels. These are Burgundian barriques as well as used 350-liter muids. Finally, the new addition starting with the 2022 vintage: a Côteaux Champenois. This is the only one that undergoes malolactic fermentation and is also aged in wood.
The tasting
Brut Éclat (base vintage 2019, dég. 12/5/2025) makes quite an impression right off the bat. Golden-yellow in the glass, with lively perlage, it initially displays the classic Granny Smith notes of a non-malolactic Champagne. With more aeration, these are framed by a ripe, autolytic background. The same balance of freshness and serenity is also present on the palate, with a dense core of wonderful fruit sweetness—wow, a great introduction (90p.). Significantly younger, but of comparable class, is the Rosé Éclat (base 2021, dég. 5/27/2025). In the glass, a dark salmon pink; on the nose, aromas of rhubarb, plums, and shortbread. It drinks very fresh and, thanks to the low dosage of 7 grams, is exceptionally pure (90p). I also find the single-varietal Chardonnay good, though not quite at this level. Blanc de Blancs Éclat (base 2016, dég. 1/19/2024) also initially reveals green apple in the bouquet, followed by pear, citrus, and ginger. Slender and straightforward on the palate, but also somewhat hard and with a slightly rustic texture (88p.)
With the Ex-Solera (base 2013, deg. 6/26/2023), the world of mature champagnes begins—accordingly, it benefits from some aeration. Afterward, the nose reveals ripe aromas such as pear, nougat, Earl Grey tea, hazelnuts, and even tobacco. On the palate, the champagne is very dry (4.5g dosage), with surprisingly low acidity (90p.). Another champagne not for beginners is Pur Meunier (dég. March 19, 2025). Like the Brut Éclat, the base wines come from the great 2019 vintage. This is evident in the complex, characterful aromas that go far beyond the standard “red berries.” With a vigorous perlage and plenty of energy on the palate, it is simultaneously marked by ripe acidity and good length (92p.). With its “delicate richness,” it doesn’t always pair optimally with food and might be best enjoyed on its own.
2012 Brut Nature (dég. 5/1/2025), on the other hand, is quite uncompromising and straightforward. The restrained nose features primarily citrus, Granny Smith, almonds, sourdough, and a hint of dry honey. On the palate, it is surprisingly lean and acidity-driven for its vintage, with a sinewy texture and a salty finish (91p.). Cléo 2012 (dég. 4/24/2024) is more wood-driven and has a fuller texture. With all its freshness, the aroma is significantly darker and more complex, featuring citrus, young pineapple, and lavender, as well as nougat and cloves (94p.).
Image rights
Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
