When the first flowers peek their colourful heads out of the ground, people are drawn to colour. No wonder rosé champagnes are so popular in spring. Ten years ago, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte created its Réserve Exclusive Rosé, which is now one of France’s most successful rosé champagnes. We wanted to find out how the cuvée presents itself today with the latest bottling. Champagne Gosset, on the other hand, is celebrating a premiere with the Cuvée Susanne Gosset. As a tribute to a woman who had a strong influence on the history of the house, the champagne is both sensual and sophisticated. The second edition of Le Chant des Fûts from Champagne Le Brun de Neuville completes the trio. It is not a rosé, but a Blanc de Blancs, yet it is extremely contemporary as a highly successful ‘concept champagne’.
1. Le Brun de Neuville: Le Chant des Futs Blanc de Blancs
With this cuvée, Le Brun de Neuville recalls the production of champagnes in the early 20th century before the introduction of concrete and stainless steel tanks. I have already reported on the premiere edition from the small cooperative in the Sézannais (more here). The same blend has been used for Édition No2 as for its predecessor. (Chardonnay from 2019 fermented in wood, then aged for 19 months in small barrels of 205, 228 and 400 litres as well as demi-muids.) This time, however, bottle fermentation was extended by 18 months (deg. 29/10/2024, 2,514 bottles). And unlike Édition No1, 5.4 grams of dosage were added this time. So now it is Extra Brut instead of Zéro Dosage. In fact, the difference is hardly noticeable on tasting, but the extended yeast storage is. Especially as the wood has integrated noticeably. A vinous champagne, but still very lively thanks to its acidity. Citrus fruits, almonds and toast on the nose, powerful but well-balanced on the palate (92+p).
2. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte: Réserve Exclusivement Rosé
Nicolas Feuillatte is also backed by a cooperative. More precisely, it is the Terroirs et Vignerons de Champagne group, now the second largest champagne producer behind MHCS/LVMH. This very dynamic company has grown thanks to its concept of ‘democratising’ champagne and, not least, selling it in supermarkets. What is normal today was scandalous 40 years ago. The aggressive price competition in ‘grande distribution’ occasionally came at the expense of quality in the early days. However, the cooperative members recognised early on that premiumisation was the best way forward for them too. In 2017, an ultra-modern production centre was opened in Chouilly, and Guillaume Roffiaen was appointed cellar master in the same year. Since then, quality has risen sharply.
This is also reflected in the Réserve Exclusivement Rosé. It consists of 45% Pinot Noir and Meunier and 10% Chardonnay. It is an assemblage, which means that the white base wines were blended with 16–18% red wine. The aroma is dominated by fresh and precise fruit, specifically raspberries and strawberries. The champagne is also balanced on the palate, with sufficient acidity and good harmony. A lovely aperitif champagne, not very complex, but impeccable (89p). Unlike some of its competitors in this price segment, it does not flatter with sweetness and (over)ripeness and does not bridge the gap to simpler sparkling wines such as Prosecco for inexperienced champagne drinkers. It is a ‘champagne champagne’ and that deserves respect!
3. Champagne Gosset: Cuvée Susanne Gosset Rosé Brut
Champagne Gosset, the oldest wine merchant still in production in Champagne, has become a destination for highly individual champagnes, at least since the arrival of its current cellar master, Odilon de Varine. For several years now, this has included a distinct expertise in rosé. The family-owned house currently has no fewer than five rosé champagnes in its range. So I was very surprised when the Maison presented a new rosé at this year’s ProWein, the Cuvée Susanne Gosset. With this wine, Gosset aims to close the gap between the classic aperitif champagne Grand Rosé and the luxury cuvée Célebris Rosé on the one hand. And the limited edition speciality 12 ans de cave à minima. It is a tribute to Susanne Gosset, who ran the house between 1955 and 1965. In 1947, she bottled the first rosé in a transparent bottle, inspired by the perfume industry.
The house repeated this pioneering feat with the 1985 Brut Rosé. After the sale to the Renaud-Cointreau family, the transparent antique bottle was reserved for the Grand Blanc de Blancs. Now the Rosé is being relaunched. Even though it is not stated on the label, it is a vintage (2017). Chardonnay dominates (65%) over Meunier (17%) and Pinot Noir (11%). The blend was made with 7% still wines from Cumières. Maturation on the lees was extended to nine months, followed by five years of bottle fermentation. This was accompanied by a relatively high (but not noticeable) dosage of 11 grams per litre and one year of post-disgorgement storage. The result is a very structured rosé for connoisseurs. Notes of grapefruit and brioche, very clear on the palate, with firm acidity, very good length and lovely salinity (92–93p). Definitely one to include in a menu.
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