History
Two winemaking families’ stories come together in the champagnes under the name Penet-Chardonnet. First, there’s the Chardonnets (which, by the way, is a local name for the Chardonnay grape), who were already growing wine in Verzenay in the 17th century. And the Penet family, who acquired their first vineyards in Verzy during the French Revolution. Champagne production began in the early 1930s – and with considerable ambition. In 1951, Gilbert and Désiré Penet bought a 19th-century cellar in Verzy from the Maison Mumm estate. Gilbert’s son Emile went on to become mayor of Verzy. He had already acquired a 19th-century manor house with a winery there in the 1940s. Emile expanded the vineyard holdings and was the first in Verzy to use a tractor in the late 1950s. In 1967, the marriage of his son Christian to Marie-Louise Chardonnet brought the vineyards of both families under one roof. This was the founding year of Champagne Penet-Chardonnet.
Christian Penet then built a state-of-the-art winery in the 1980s, which is still the main production site of the winery today. His son Alexandre grew up on the estate, but in 1994 he decided to study engineering at an elite university in Paris. After a few years in professional life, he returned to university in Reims, where he graduated with a degree in viticulture and oenology. This was followed by two years in the USA, where he obtained an MBA in Chicago. In 2009, his father died at the age of 63, and the 37-year-old son returned to Verzy to take over his parents’ winery. He reorganised the company’s business activities. Under the umbrella of La Maison Penet, he now brings together Penet-Chardonnet and the Alexandre Pernet champagne brand (made from purchased grapes). He is supported by his Alsatian wife Martine, with whom he also produces an excellent Crémant d’Alsace under the name Comte de Grimm.
Style
Penet-Chardonnet champagnes bear the term Grand Cru in their name. In fact, of the six hectares of vineyards, five are located in Verzy and one in Verzenay. Two-thirds are planted with Pinot Noir and the rest with Chardonnay, a typical ratio in the north-west of the Montagne de Reims. The grapes from here are highly sought-after because of their enormous freshness and structure. They are the main factor that defines the style of Penet-Chardonnet. Since taking over the house, he has been producing single-vineyard champagnes from individual plots. It is no surprise that he also attaches great importance to the cultivation of the vines, which are on average 30 years old. The maison has therefore been awarded two sustainability certifications (HVE and VDC). Chemical fertilisers, herbicides and insecticides are not used, and biodiversity is promoted. Small presses (including Coquard) and a wide variety of fermentation tanks made from different materials enable plot-specific vinification.
In the cellar, Alexandre Penet has made two striking stylistic decisions. Firstly, he blocks malolactic fermentation and secondly, he uses a very low dosage. This may have been more shocking when he first started out than it is today. In any case, ten years ago, the British champagne writer wrote of ‘real hardcore champagnes for aficionados’. This perception is certainly different today. The majority of the must ferments in small enamel or stainless steel tanks, while another part ferments and matures in oak barrels. The tirage, i.e. the filling after the first fermentation and the assemblage, only takes place after eight months. This avoids physical or chemical treatments such as filtration, fining and cold stabilisation. The minimum time for bottle fermentation is three to four years, and significantly longer for single-vineyard champagnes. The documentation on the back label is exemplary. These are genuine artisanal champagnes with only one drawback. To quote Tom Stevenson once again: ‘The prices reflect the prestige status.’
Portfolio
The house’s basis is the Hypothesis line, which consists of two champagnes: Hypothesis Grand Cru Extra Brut is a multi-vintage from Verzy and Verzenay (65PN | 35Ch), in which the base vintage is supplemented by a more than ten-year-old ‘perpetual reserve’. The Hypothesis Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, introduced in 2025, is a single-varietal Pinot Noir and also a Brut Nature. Another new development in 2025 was the replacement of the ‘Terroir & Sens’ range by Epitome, which undergoes extended bottle fermentation for up to six years. A second feature is the maturation of the 15-year-old Solera reserve wines in wooden barrels. They are available as Epitome Grand Cru Extra Brut (70PN | 30Ch). Then as a mono-cru Blanc de Blancs from Verzy: Epitome Chardonnay Grand Cru Extra Brut. And finally as Epitome Rosé Grand Cru Extra Brut, blended from 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay.
At the heart of the range, however, is the house’s Lieu-dit or single vineyard series. There are currently five, all vintage champagnes, all Extra Brut: Les Fervins Verzy Grand Cru, vinified in steel, from “co-planted” Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (70|30). Then there is Les Epinettes Verzy Grand Cru Blanc De Noirs, also made in steel. Its counterpart, but vinified in wood, is Les Blanches Voies Verzy Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs. The second single-varietal Pinot Noir, La Croix l’Aumonier Verzy Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, is matured in 400- and 500-litre wooden barrels. Its counterpart from the neighbouring commune is Les Champs Saint Martin Verzenay Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs. The range also includes the vintage mono-crus Prestige Grande Réserve and Coline & Candice from Verzy and Diane Claire from Verzenay as part of the L’Esprit Collection. The former and the latter are also available as very long-aged 2002 vintages under the title ‘Private Collection’.
Tasting
Hypothesis Grand Cru Extra Brut (base 2022, disg. 25.10.2024) is a very good introduction. Fruity and fresh bouquet with notes of raspberries and brioche as well as subtle lactic notes. Powerful on the palate, with a creamy mousse and delicately bitter phenolic hints. The acidity is quite soft, and you can sense the ripe grapes. But the freshness is there, and a few more months of bottle ageing will not hurt (91p). Hypothesis Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs (base 2022, disg. 25.10.2024) surprises with its delicate salmon-copper hue. Some houses make lighter rosés. Otherwise, apples, raspberries, spices and a hint of yeast on the nose. Elegant, lively and pure on the palate, a beautiful, slender Pinot Noir with delicate perlage (91+p). Epitome Chardonnay Grand Cru Extra Brut (base 2019, disg. 10.9.2024) goes one better. Bright in the glass, with grapefruit and lime on the nose. Vinous and creamy on the palate, with a hint of oak. At the same time, it has an electrifying acidity, chalky and with some length (93p).
The trio of ‘Lieu-dits’ sent to Berlin by Alexander Pernet was a real treat. Les Fervins Verzy Grand Cru 2011 (disg. 1.3.2023) from a south-eastern exposure confirmed the tasting notes from Wine Paris (here). Very hedonistic to drink with notes of elderflower, mandarin and almonds. Plenty of richness and freshness on the palate despite the difficult vintage (93p). Les Epinettes Verzy Grand Cru Blanc De Noirs comes from a historic parcel belonging to the family. In this bottling, the north-western exposure of the vineyard balances out the generous 2012 vintage. The result is a slightly more reserved champagne than the Fervins, with more red berry aromas. But it already appears very distinguished and elegant. Currently rather lean in appearance, it has enormous potential thanks to its enormous structure (94p). Les Champs Saint Martin Verzenay Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, also from 2012 (23.6.2023), is the most opulent of the three. Dark gold with a hint of pink in the glass, broader, more powerful and vinous, with good acidity and a salty finish (93–94p). Works very well with food.
Image rights
Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
More on this topic and introductory information:
Stefan Pegatzky: Champagne: The 100 Most Important Maisons, Winemakers and Cooperatives.
240 pages, numerous illustrations.
Wiesbaden: Tre Torri Verlag, 2001.
Awarded the German Cookbook Prize in Gold as the best wine book of 2021.
