Blanc de Noirs, i.e. ‘white’ champagne made exclusively from red grapes, is a trend in Champagne. Many Maisons have presented premieres in recent years. I wrote about Bruno Paillard’s Blanc de Noir here – this time I am presenting one from Le Brun de Neuville. Cuvées consisting exclusively of reserve wines have recently been seen in a number of vintners’ champagnes. Now Laurent-Perrier has taken up the theme. In addition, I present two completely contrasting vintage champagnes.
1 For beginners: Pannier Vintage 2018 Brut
Sur-la-pointe published a report on Champagne Pannier this year following a visit to the site (here). The prestigious brand from the Covama cooperative in the far west of Champagne has two different ranges in its programme. Some cuvées for connoisseurs, such as the two Ode au Meunier. And an entry-level range designed to familiarise consumers who are used to sparkling wine and Prosecco with Champagne. In this sense, Vintage 2018 is something like the vintage version of the house’s very fruity and soft base cuvée, Sélection Brut. The hot summer of 2018 also reinforces this impression. After all, the rather high Chardonnay content of 45 per cent (alongside 35 per cent Pinot Noir and 20 per cent Pinot Meunier) ensures a ‘bella figura’. For those who are not so familiar with the steely acidity of classic champagnes, this is a vintage champagne at a fair price (88p.). Those looking for more freshness and precision should go for the Blanc de Noirs Millésimé, currently from the 2016 vintage.
2 For the unconventional: Le Brun de Neuville Blanc de Noir Extra-Brut
The small co-operative from Bethon has invested massively in quality in recent years (here is my portrait). They are not modelled on the big négociants, but on vintners’ champagnes. Last year, I presented a Blanc de Blancs aged in wood. Brand new on the market: the first Blanc de Noirs made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir. As part of the Côte line, it is intended to express the terroir of the Côte de Sézanne. The premiere cuvée consists of 46 per cent base wines from the 2021 vintage and 54 per cent from 2019, 2018 and 2013. 4 per cent of the wines were matured in wood and the malo was partially blocked. With 6 grams of dosage (deg.07/24), it is the only one of the quartet to be labelled as extra brut. In the glass it has a strong golden yellow colour with a lively mousse, ripe apples, red berries, almonds and some bread dough on the nose. Quite powerful on the palate, but also fresh and lively thanks to the distinctive acidity (91p.). A good food companion!
3 For the experienced: Laurent-Perrier Héritage Brut
As far as I know, Laurent-Perrier Héritage is the first champagne from a major Maison to be made exclusively from reserve wines. There is therefore no base vintage to which the reserve wines are blended. In this respect, it is the counterpart to the Vintage. It shares with its ‘big brother’, the Grand Siècle, the concept of multi-vintage, which means that the wine is composed from a few very specific vintages. In the first edition just presented: 55 per cent Chardonnay and 45 per cent Pinot Noir from 2014, 2016, 2018 and 2019. However, it ‘only’ remains on the lees for three years. At 6 grams, the dosage is actually ‘extra brut’, even if the label does not state this. Unlike the Grand Siècle, the premiere edition was not numbered. It is a ripe, very vinous champagne, with notes of pears and fresh sourdough bread. Concentrated and quite opulent, with soft acidity and a lovely texture, but still a little short (93 p.).
4 For stylists: Gosset Grand Millésime 2016 Brut
At Gosset, the vintage is intended to reflect the year like a photograph, which is why its characteristics are not equalised in the assemblage, but rather enhanced. The Maison from Épernay recently launched its Grand Millésime 2016 on the market. This vintage has turned out exceptionally well for the house in Épernay. It is the first vintage for which Odilon de Varine, who became Chef de Cave at Gosset after the death of Jean-Pierre Mareigner, was responsible. Unlike the previous year, Chardonnay dominates again with 61 per cent compared to 39 per cent Pinot Noir. The grapes are sourced from Ambonnay, Aÿ, Chamery, Cramant, Mailly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Passy-sur-Marne, Pierry, Trépail and Vertus, among others. The wine was disgorged in 2023 and given a low dosage of 4 g/l, but labelled as Brut. Apple, strawberries and almonds on the nose. Very nice freshness on the palate, multi-layered and enormous drinking flow (93-94 p.)
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