History
The champagne house traces its origins back to 1735, when winegrower and cooper Jean Mandois was first mentioned. The first records of wine production in the cellars of Épernay date back to 1832. But it was not until 1862 that Victor Mandois began producing his own cuvées. At that time, the winery was still located on Rue de Grandpierre (now Avenue Maréchal Foch), the road leading to Pierry in the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. It was his son Victor-Auguste Mandois who moved the business to Pierry, where he had acquired an 18th-century winery and cellar in 1905. It is a historic location, as Brother Jean Oudart, who was of great importance to the history of champagne, is buried in the church next door. Victor-Auguste Mandois died in 1922, his wife five years later. With only 3.5 hectares of vineyards remaining, his son Henri took over the now split-up estate in the early 1930s.
Under his leadership, the winery began to grow again. In 1950, his son Michel joined the company, and in 1960, Champagne G[aston]. Dericbourg from Pierry was taken over, whose founder, a friend of the family, had no descendants. In the mid-1970s, Henri decided to market champagne under his own name. Since Michel Mandois’ death in 1987, his son Claude has taken over responsibility. Two years later, the house assumed the status of a négociant, and in 2012 it was renamed Champagne Mandois. After the death of his mother Madeleine in 2020, Claude is supported by his sister Catherine, who is in charge of administrative and financial management. In the meantime, the estate’s vineyard area has grown to 37 hectares, and there have also been some changes in the cellar. Maximilien de Billy has been working here as ‘chef de cave’ since 2021. Finally, in 2024, the spectacular ‘Gallerie Parcellaire’ was inaugurated, where 12 of the best parcels from the house’s 17 crus ferment.
Style
Champagne Mandois is located in Pierry, a Premier Cru commune in the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. In terms of viticulture, this is a transitional zone between the Chardonnay-dominated Côte des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne, where red grape varieties, especially Meunier, dominate. The 1.5-hectare ‘Le Clos’, which the family acquired in three stages between 1905 and 1982 and on which Meunier vines planted in 1955 stand, is therefore rightly the pride of the house. Otherwise, the family’s vines are located in 12 communes on 37 hectares. They are particularly prominent in the Grand Cru Chouilly and Premier Cru Vertus, but also in Bethon in the Sézannais. Since around 2000, Claude Mandois has been involved in natural viticulture, and a number of biodynamic principles are now also being applied. In 2020, the 23 hectares closest to Pierry were certified organic. The estate’s own vineyards only supply 70 per cent of its needs, with the rest being purchased from other sources.
For years, the base wines for Mandois champagnes have mostly been aged in steel tanks, with a proportion in wooden barrels of various sizes, varying between 10 and 30 per cent depending on the cuvée. The only exception is the Clos, which is fermented entirely in wood. It is also the only champagne in the portfolio in which malolactic acid is completely blocked. With the completion of the ‘Gallerie Parcellaire’ in 2024, the proportion of wood is likely to increase in the future. In addition, the influence of the new tulip-shaped concrete tanks will soon become apparent. Champagne Mandois generally uses natural yeasts and a long, sometimes very long, bottle fermentation process. This is supported by the perfect maturing conditions in the 2-kilometre-long cellars. An 18th-century cellar bears the name Cave Oudart in homage to the Champagne monk buried just a few metres away. The dosage is moderate to low. A remarkable 30 per cent of the champagnes are matured as vintage cuvées.
Portfolio
The entry-level range from Champagne Mandois initially presents itself as that of a traditional trading house. Brut Origine is the classic non-vintage (and delicately wood-kissed) entry-level cuvée. Currently from the base vintage 2021 and three reserve vintages. Chardonnay dominates the vineyard at Mandois with 70 per cent, and accordingly, it is also the leading grape here with 40 per cent (plus 30 per cent each of PN and PM). It is accompanied by a Brut Zéro (made according to the same formula, but with more mature base wines, currently with a base of 2019) and, for some sales areas, a Demi-sec. And finally, a Rosé Grand Reserve. This is prepared in a very individual way: it is a Rosé d’Assemblage, which means that 10 per cent of coloured still wines are added to the white base wines (40PM|30PN|30Ch) before bottle fermentation. Half of this 10 per cent consists of classically vinified red wines and half of rosé de saignée, i.e. rosé wine obtained from the bleeding of red grapes. The result is a particularly elegant rosé champagne.
The real speciality is evident in the vintage champagnes. There are two lines here: the 1735 series with a Blanc de Blancs Millésimé and a Blanc de Noirs Millésimé, both aged 20 per cent in wood. And finally, named after the founder of the house, the Victor series. In addition to a Victor Rosé Millésimé Vieilles Vignes, this series currently also includes the second vintage Chardonnay: Victor Blanc de Blancs Millésimé Vieilles Vignes. Both have been aged longer than the classic vintage champagnes and, with a 30 percent share, also have more contact with wood. The recently introduced Blanc de Blancs package ‘Terroirs’, with one vintage cru 2015 from Vertus and one from Chouilly, has not been continued so far. The top of the range continues to be the single-vineyard champagne Le Clos from Pierry, a pure Pinot Meunier, first introduced with the 2004 vintage. Before bottle fermentation, it is aged for eight months, unclarified and unfiltered, in demi-muids (600-litre barrels).
Tasting
Champagne Mandois starts with a distinctly fragrant champagne. The Brut Origine has a seductive bouquet with citrus and mandarin notes framed by stone fruits and delicate yeasty spice. The perlage is fresh but not effervescent. A mild acidity on the palate with fine fruit sweetness (7 grams dosage) and a beautiful texture creates a round, elegant whole. A successful aperitif (deg.2/25, 89p.)! The Brut Nature follows on from this and is even extremely successful in this assemblage (with 2019 as the base vintage)! Pears, raspberries, figs, walnuts and brioche on the nose with a very refined, fine mousse. Also appears slightly darker on the palate than the Origine, with some phenolic notes and good acidity. Quite long and thoroughly complex, very convincing (deg. 1/24, 91p). The Blanc de Blancs 2020 Brut cannot currently compete with this. Exotic nose with pineapple, peach and white almonds, it is quite ripe and somewhat short on the palate. The acidity is there, but I miss a little playfulness and elegance (deg. 11/24, 90p.).
In contrast, the Victor Blanc de Blancs 2013 Vieilles Vignes Brut is surprisingly dark and complex. The bouquet features mirabelle plums, apples, cactus fruit and cashew nuts, but above all complex autolytic brioche notes. Unexpectedly ripe in acidity for the late-ripening 2013 vintage, with an almost creamy texture (deg. 12/24, 92–93p.). Complex fruitiness dominates the Victor Rosé 2016 Vieilles Vignes Brut, a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier from Pierry. The aromas of apples, strawberries and plums, with orange zest and mandarins when aerated, come from noticeably ripe grapes. The warmth of the vintage continues on the palate with generosity and beautiful balance, perhaps only slightly short (deg. 12/24, 92 P.). The Clos Mandois 2012 Brut (100 per cent Meunier) bears the inscription ‘After Dinner’ on the back label. In fact, it is a very sophisticated champagne that demands your full attention. In the glass, it is like an unvarnished diva, with candied fruit, lemon zest, dry honey and a hint of toast. Structured on the palate, acidic and full of character, with a long salty finish (no disgorgement date given, 95p.).
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