Shortly before the opening of his grand hotel The Florentin, complete with the ambitious restaurant the dune, Thomas Althoff wanted to give it another go. The initiator and—together with Andres Schmitt—spiritus rector of the Pinot Summit series therefore invited guests to the third installment of the format at a venue representing the absolute pinnacle of German cuisine: the Hamburg restaurant Haerlin in the posh Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. The first two fine dining venues were more regional (Überfahrt in Tegernsee) or Asian (Votum in Hanover) in character. Now the Pinots were confronted with top-class German cuisine that makes no secret of its roots in French haute cuisine. The latter is, of course, the natural counterpart to the great French Burgundies. In this respect, the pairing belonged to the premier league, so to speak. And it was an opportunity for German wines to prove their equivalence as food accompaniments, even in comparison to their historical role models. Since five winemakers were involved this time, an additional course was served.
The white wines
A single-varietal Pinot Blanc Sekt, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2017 from the Rudolf Fürst Winery in Bürgstadt, Franconia preeceded three excellent hors d’oeuvres. After 76 months, it displayed an elegant texture, but was somewhat reserved in terms of aroma. Nevertheless, it provided the perfect setting for a sensational oyster creation by Christoph Rüffer. This was followed by the 2023 Chardonnay “KO” from the von Winning Winery, a wine whose spectacular predecessor from 2021 had made a deep impression at Lake Tegernsee (more here). The current vintage was perhaps not quite as powerful and complex, but enormously focused. At present, however, it is still very youthful and characterized by reduction. This was followed by a 2024 Grauburgunder dry Andreasberg, a 1st growth from the Weingut Schloß Ortenberg in the Ortenau region. The complex wine was very fresh, not least due to the vintage, with lively acidity and beautifully integrated wood. However, the order was not ideal, as the Andreasberg had quite a struggle to compete following the KO.
To accompany the sole, Paul Fürst, one of the greatest stylists in German viticulture, presented the Chardonnay “R” from 2022. The wine does not aim for breadth and power, but rather for inner density and finest texture. It is certainly one of the top three Chardonnays in the country – and accompanied the fish wonderfully with its sophisticated artichoke and citrus broth. Fritz Keller then presented a more mature wine. His Chardonnay GG from Oberrotweiler Kirchberg in Kaiserstuhl is from 2018 and showed itself to be developed and significantly more settled. A wine with a beautiful spiciness, but it has also lost some of its youthful grip. The last white wine, Chardonnay Haardter Herzog 1. Gewächs 2023 from the Weingut von Winning, was presented by estate director Stephan Attmann paired with sweetbreads. An excellent pairing! There was a lot of umami (especially from the miso carrot cream) on the plate. But the Herzog countered with complexity and brilliant acidity, almost overshadowing its big brother “KO.”
The Reds
Paul Fürst once again kicked things off for the reds with his 2019 Pinot Noir GG Klingenberger Schlossberg. It had developed wonderfully and showed great elegance. Dense and complex, yet fragrant and delicate—a German Pinot Noir in the very best sense! The 2022 Pinot Noir GG from the Achkarrer Schlossberg vineyard of the Franz Keller winery, on the other hand, presented itself with a bright burgundy red color and youthful energy. Lots of spice and fruit aromas of sour cherry and plum in the bouquet. Both wines are quite different in style, but they share freshness, elegance, and impressive texture thanks to precise tannin management. A dream team to accompany pigeon breast! Publisher and winery owner Ralf Frenzel then transported us to another world with the 2022 Pinot Noir GG from the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg vineyard of the Krone Winery. Pinot Noir shows a different side of itself on slate. This wine has what it takes to become a Rheingau legend. Of course, despite all its complexity, it currently only reveals hints of its true greatness.
The last duo of dry Pinot Noirs accompanied the saddle of venison, a very German pairing, if you will. However, the bar was set quite high by Christoph Rüffer’s preference for very concentrated accompanying jus. The 2015 Pinot Noir “Juwel” from theKrone Assmannshausen winery kicked things off. The perfectly matured wine displayed an almost sweet fruitiness (ripe strawberries!). Despite its density and refined tannins, it was a Pinot Noir from another era. But one that paired wonderfully with the venison. More modern in style was the 2022 Pinot Noir GG Spitalberg from the Schloß Ortenberg winery, presented by managing director Matthias Wolf. Fresh and grippy, but also with ripe, mild acidity, the wine showed beautiful density and good texture.
The dessert was rounded off with a wine from a dying breed. The 2018 Pinot Noir Weißherbst Spätlese from the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg vineyard at the Krone Winery. With a delicate blue shimmering rosé color in the glass, the wine showed the perfect balance of acidity, fruit, and subtle sweetness on the palate. Simply delicious with the “hundred shades of apple” in the dessert!
Conclusion
It was a truly delightful evening in Hamburg! Not least thanks to the magical moments, which in some cases were created by a single course, in others by a particular wine – but ideally by a combination of both. Anyone who still had doubts about the “haute cuisine capabilities” of great German Burgundy wines had them dispelled here. But what became particularly clear once again on this day was the enormous diversity of the German Burgundy landscape. Chardonnay is increasingly asserting itself alongside its old rivals, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, and may even have overtaken them at the top. Pinot Noir shows its different facets depending on the soil in which it grows, be it shell limestone, slate, granite, or red sandstone.
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Row 1 (top row of pictures, from left to right):
GILLARDEAU OYSTER with zucchini & green horseradish foam | LIGHTLY MARINATED SCALLOP with pointed cabbage, green apple & jalapeño escabeche | SOLE FILLET MEUNIERE in artichoke and citrus broth with olive oil & parsley and Parmesan tortelli
Row 2:
GRILLED PIGEON BREAST in cardamom and mountain pepper jus with pistachio and beetroot | ROASTED VEAL SWEETBREAD with miso carrot cream, Piedmontese hazelnuts & veal head lemon jus | SADDLE OF VENISON GLACÉED WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR crispy buckwheat, green juniper sabayon & Paris mushrooms
Row 3:
BRAISED ALTLÄNDER APPLE with warm apple Calvados tea, roasted oat ganache & iced chervil | PETITS FOURS | RENEKLODE CHEESECAKE
Additional image: PUMPKIN SEED CHIPS with tuna akami & soy eel glaze
Image rights
Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
