Some love them, some hate them. Some consider it sacrilege that the name of the category is English and not Italian. The term “Super Tuscan” sparks many of the controversies that occupy the wine world today. Wine and globalization as well as terroir connection and brand-building are at the forefront. When the first of the later Super Tuscans appeared, the focus was still on the renaissance of Italian viticulture. In the nineties, the new table wines (from 1995: IGTs) surfed the perfect wave of international wine taste. The trend switch around 2010 initially hit the wines hard. However, most of them experienced an impressive comeback soon afterwards. Where do the Supertuscans stand today?
A look back
1968 and 1971 are the two initial years that were to change Tuscan viticulture. In 1971, two wineries each presented a cuvée from the 1968 vintage that radically broke with the old codes. One was the Sassicaia from Marchese Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta from Bolgheri near the Tuscan coast. At the same time, the Vigorello from the San Felice winery in Castelnuovo Beradegna, one of the historic seven municipalities of Chianti Classico. These form the two roots of the later Super Tuscans. One because it was composed entirely from Bordeaux grape varieties. The other because it consisted of 100 percent Sangiovese, which contradicted the Chianti regulations of the time. Both wines were created as a criticism of the state of Tuscan viticulture (the Vigorello was labeled “Vino da Tavola Riserva” from 1974!) But their response to this was different. Bordeaux and Sangiovese were now to be the two poles around which the new Tuscan wines were to revolve.
Saissicaia and Vigorello quickly found successors. But it would take until the 1986 methanol scandal and the subsequent “Italian wine spring” for the new “vino da tavola” to gain international acceptance. However, the preferences of international wine critics and the great dependence on US consumer preferences changed the wines. In the eyes of many local observers, the distinctive character of the “fuoriclassa”, the extra class of Tuscan wine production, was increasingly compromised. At the latest after Brunello-Gate, when the frequently practiced but illegal blending of Brunello with Merlot and Cabernet came to light, the tide turned. When the financial crisis hit, Christian Eder ran the headline in “Vinum” in March 2013: “Myth of the Super Tuscan. The end of an era?”
In the meantime, Chianti has undergone a radical makeover. With the ambitious “Chianti 2000” project, for example, and the regulations for the new top category “Gran Selezione”. And, most recently, the introduction of 11 origin-related sub-appellations (UGA) in 2024. Are the new Chianti Crus now replacing the Super Tuscans? The figures tell a different story. Of the seven Tuscan wines in the Livex-100, the most important trade index for the secondary wine market, six are Super Tuscans. In the Italy-100 sub-index, Tuscany is represented exclusively by Super Tuscans. The following tasting is dedicated to four very different representatives of current vintages.
I Isole e Olena Cepparello 2021
Of all the wineries presented here, Isole e Olena from the Chianti subzone of San Donato in Poggio embodies the most traditional approach. It is the only winery in this quartet that produces Vin Santo as well as Chianti Classico. Through the former owner family De Marchi, Isole e Olena is closely linked to the renaissance of Tuscan viticulture in the 1980s. When Paolo de Marchi took over the winery in 1976 at the age of 25, he was primarily concerned with Chianti, the quality of which he wanted to improve dramatically. For him, this meant abandoning white grapes in the blend. Of course, this was only possible with better Sangiovese grapes. His focus was therefore on the vineyard, which led to a deep knowledge of the different soil types and an elaborate mass selection of the estate’s best vines. In 1980, the first Cepparello was presented. It was a 100% Sangiovese cuvée of the estate’s best lots, labeled as a table wine due to regulations.
The EPI Group led by Christopher Descours has owned Isole e Olena since 2023. In addition to the Brunello legend Biondi-Santi, it also possesses the champagne houses Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck. Under the new estate director Emanuele Reolon, the philosophy of the estate is not set to change. Cepparello is the flagship of the estate as the “Super Tuscan”. In addition, there is the series of single-varietal bottlings of French grape varieties (Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet) already introduced under De Marchi under the name “Collezione Privata”. In terms of price, the Cabernet is now on a par with Cepparello. But the Collezione range is communicated as “avant-garde” wines, quasi as experimental sidekicks alongside the great classics. In any case, the 2021 Cepparello is exceptionally well made. Bright ruby red in the glass. Initially dark berries, mint and smoke on the nose, followed by cherries and thyme as well as spicy notes such as clove and allspice. Fine tannins on the palate, multi-layered and with great clarity, freshness and enormous length (97 P.).
II Castello di Vicarello and Terre de Vico 2018
Castello di Vicarello presented the most mature wines in the tasting with the 2018 vintage. The winery is also located in Poggi del Sasso in the Alta Maremma, south of the classic Tuscan wine-growing regions. It is therefore the only one of the four that does not come from Chianti Classico. The winery dates back to a Bordeaux discovery by entrepreneur Carlo Baccheschi Berti at the end of the 1990s. After restoring an old 12th century castello, he decided to plant French vines there. Today, the winery cultivates a total of 6 hectares spread over three individual vineyards. From these, 5 wines are currently bottled, all of them IGTs, although at least the Terre de Vico could also carry the DOC Maremma Toscana Rosso. Interestingly, the winery describes the Terre de Vico as its “Super Tuscan”. The Castello di Vicarello, on the other hand, is its Grand Vin, a blend in the sense of a Médoc Château.
The family is proud of the high planting density of the vines. The wines are also certified organic twice over. The Terre di Vico 2018 is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Merlot from the single vineyard Poggio di Vico. Unlike the Castello, it ferments (partly) in stainless steel and the Cabernet matures in used barriques. The nose presents itself with intense sour cherries, raspberries and kiwis, as well as slightly wild horse stable notes. Notes of blackberries and chocolate are added on the medium-bodied palate. The mouthfeel is soft, open and hedonistic, but with good acidity. The tannins are somewhat coarser than those of the comparison field (90 P.). Castello di Vicorello 2018, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot from the Vigna del Castello vineyard, shows classic berry compote as well as notes of liqueur, undergrowth and smoke. The acidity is softer, but the mouthfeel is fleshier and the tannins appear more polished. Nice drinking flow, no longer needs long ageing (92 P.).
III La Massa Giorgio Primo
Giampaolo Motta’s Tenuta La Massa has a number of surprising parallels with Castello di Vicarello. Although La Massa is the 12-year older project – the premiere wine was released in 1992, Vicarello in 2004 and its 25 hectares of vineyards are located in the famous Conca D’Oro in the Chianti municipality of Panzano, a good 300 meters higher than Vicarello at an altitude of up to 500 meters. However, the range is surprisingly similar: there are two single-varietal wines: here Carla 6 (Sangiovese) and Asiram (Merlot), there Merah (Sangiovese), Poggio Vico (Petit Verdot) and the rosé Santaurora (Malbec). Motta also describes his second wine La Massa as Super Tuscan. Once labeled as Chianti, the cuvée of Sangiovese and French grape varieties is now an IGT. In contrast, the winemaker sees Giorgio Primo – like Castello di Vicarello – explicitly as a Grand Vin based on the Bordeaux model. In the 2020 vintage, the blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (15%) and Petit Verdot (10%).
Moreover, Giampaolo Motta does not come from Tuscany either and his impulse to make wine derives from his love for Bordeaux blends – which incidentally originated during his chemistry studies in Lyon. But before founding his winery, Motta worked at renowned addresses in the region. And he has a headstart in terms of knowledge and experience, not least thanks to advisors such as Carlo Ferrini and Stéphane Derenoncourt. Back in the 1990s, La Massa was a pioneer in the geological zoning of vineyards, which is why the interaction of soil and vine is a key focus today. The winery also works with the best French tonneliers, some of whom supply customized barrels. This becomes immediately apparent during the tasting. Initially restrained, the bouquet quickly opens up dramatically, with notes of roses, cassis and spices. On the palate, it is denser than a classic Médoc, with hugely fine tannins and a generosity almost reminiscent of Napa Crus. In short: what you would expect from a Super Tuscan (95 p.). No wonder the wine is now sold through La Place de Bordeaux.
IV Volta di Bertinga 2019
Bertinga is the youngest winery in this selection. It was founded in 2015 by Maxim Kashirin and Anatoly Korneev, owners of the Russian Simple Group. From humble beginnings in 1994 as an importer of Italian wine, it has now developed into one of Russia’s leading fine wine merchants with an impressive “ecosystem”. It all started when the two Italian specialists were able to acquire the legendary Bertinga vineyard from Castello di Ama. The estate now covers 20 hectares and five wines are produced – at the Istene winery until their own winery is ready. With the exception of one Chianti, they are all IGT. However, this does not play an important role and is not mentioned on the homepage. The flagship Bertinga is a Sangiovese-Merlot cuvée, as is the second wine Sassi Chiusi. There are also two single-varietal wines. The single-varietal Sangiovese Punta di Adine and Volta di Bertinga from block number 10 of the vineyard of the same name. The latter is the wine that made Bertinga instantly famous.
In an interview with “Forbes”, sales manager Luca Vitiello expressed dissatisfaction with the term Super Tuscan. At the same time, he conceded that there was no other term under which Bertinga’s wines could be categorized. As a Tuscan Merlot, Volta is of course in the tradition of Masseto, but also L’Apparita from Ama and Ricolma from San Giusto a Rentennano. However, none other than Stéphane Derenoncourt is responsible for Bertinga’s winemaking. The right direction can already be seen from the technical data: Fermentation in stainless steel, for example, and storage in only 30 percent new oak. After 2015 and 2016, 2019 is the third vintage of the Volta – and it has become a spectacular wine. Plum, violets, dark chocolate and white pepper on the nose. Hedonistic on the palate, with the finest tannins and a velvety mouthfeel. Not plush, but fresh and defined (97 P.). A strong plea for Merlot from Gaiole!
Summing up
A strong performance, without question. The wines presented here showed a high, sometimes very high level. Most of them are storable and will continue to grow in complexity. It was also impressive that they hardly showed any signs of climate change. The Cepparello certainly had a high 15 percent alcohol content, but this was not noticeable on the palate. Nevertheless, the initial question remains unanswered. In this round, only Cepparello is explicitly described as Super Tuscan by its producers. This is probably due to its historical heritage. In any case, 16 wineries – including Isole e Olena – founded the “Comitato Historical Super Tuscans” association in Florence in 2021. Its aim is to bring the former blockbusters back into the spotlight and promote them on the international markets. However, these are all wineries that had already created a Super Tuscan before 1995, i.e. before the introduction of the IGT Toscana.
The younger producers, on the other hand, often simply refer to the super-premium IGTs. On the one hand, this is technically more correct and, on the other, it doesn’t include a jab at the great Chiantis. Of course, these too have long since become veritable “Super Tuscans”. What is interesting, however, is that two of the wineries presented here refer to Bordeaux as a frame of reference and explicitly see their top wines as “Grand Vins”. This “château strategy” was actually first introduced by Castello Fonterutoli in 1997 for its Chiantis. Here, the second wine is simply called Chianti Classico, while the former Riserva is bottled under the name of the winery as “Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli”.
So things remain complicated with the great wines of Tuscany. Luca Vitiello from Bertinga made the interesting remark: “We wanted to focus on the Chianti Classico as a territory rather than an appellation.” For many, the production of a Super Tuscan or super-premium IGP seems to be the ideal way to realize the best of the given conditions of the Tuscan terroir in a wine. However, unlike Chianti, this is paid for with at least a partial loss of cultural identity – which is, of course, anything but chiseled in stone. It will be the performance of the current wines on tomorrow’s markets that will decide whether the term “Super Tuscan” has a future.
Image rights
All bottle shots and opening photos: Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
Aerial view of Isola e Olena: Isola e Olena / public domain
Castello vineyard of Castello di Vicarello from the drone: Castello di Vicarello
Giampaolo Motta and the vineyards of the estate: Tenuta La Massa
Bertinga vineyard: Loredana Catena
