This year, 12,100 visitors made their way to Berlin. Last year, there were 15,114, which is a drop of 20 per cent. In contrast, the number of exhibitors rose by a good 13 per cent: from around 500 to 566. But it was significantly less international, which is probably due in no small part to the offshoot in London. Instead of 87 countries as in the previous year, visitors in 2025 came from only 50 nations. Wine was not a topic this year. At least the Japanese joint stand exhibited again in Berlin after being discontinued last year. Unfortunately, the producers had brought mostly simple to medium-quality sake to Berlin. But here are my five spirit highlights from 2025.
Brennerei Humbel K.2 Kirsch im Arven-Holzfass 2018
More than 100 years after its founding in 1918, the Swiss distillery Humbel has long been a multi-generational project. Today, Lorenz Humbel, the grandson of founder Max, is actively supported by his children. His son Luiz is the master distiller and his daughter Gloria is responsible for marketing and communications. Perhaps that is why the pace of innovation is so impressively high. In Berlin, the company presented several new products from recent years. Of my three favourites, Muscat Bleu 11.1 was already introduced at the end of 2022. Aged in wooden barrels, it is naturally not as pure as the classic 11, but it is enormously expressive and has a beautiful texture. The Schattenmorelle 4.1 is a wild-fermented sour cherry – intense and impressive. Interestingly, the natural yeasts particularly emphasise the marzipan-like core aromas, which somewhat overshadows the fruit.
My number one: Kirsch K.2. This is a blend of 198 cherry varieties, which was first aged for five years in Swiss stone pine barrels. For its finish, the brandy was then left to rest for another two years in a former bourbon whisky barrel. Swiss stone pine is the classic high-altitude pine tree in Switzerland, which is why the combination makes sense at first glance. However, due to its high aromaticity, combining it with cherry is also risky. In this case, the combination works perfectly and results in a highly complex distillate, where delicate vanilla and resin aromas can be found alongside the expected fruity cherry notes.
2. Bache Gabrielsen Cognac Grande Champagne Hors d’Age
Bache Gabrielsen is a cognac house that is not very well known in Germany. Founded in 1905, the company is still family-owned, and its history has a lot to do with the remarkable Norwegian roots in Cognac. These are still present in the Larsen and Braastad houses, for example, whose family currently also includes the head of Champagne Delamain. In any case, Bache Gabrielsen focuses primarily on the Scandinavian markets, so that only a few bottles have found their way to Germany so far. Incidentally, the decent entry-level VS Tre Kors, with its three crosses on the label, is a reminder that prohibition also existed in Europe. Between 1916 and 1926, the house labelled its ‘Three Star’ cognac with three crosses and sold it exclusively in pharmacies. Prohibition ended, but the crosses remained.
The house does not own any vineyards and purchases grapes from all regions, especially Ugni Blanc, which accounts for 97 per cent of its production. In addition to the classic qualities, there are a number of special cuvées. From the vintage series, I was able to taste the 1993 (aged 30 years) and the 1999 (aged 22 years). All are single estate cognacs from winegrowers with whom the house has worked for many years. However, the most complex is the Hors d’Age. The oldest eaux-de-vie in the blend come from the Grande Champagne region and were distilled during the First World War, while the younger elements date from the 1960s. Complex, with plenty of spice, but also floral notes and impressive length.
3. Bougainville Mauritius Island Rum Extra Old Single Cask 2013
Oxenham, a company operating in Mauritius since 1932, has a fascinating history as a wine merchant and producer. In 1987, it also obtained a distilling licence, and in 2010, it presented its first rum. Not in the Caribbean, mind you, but on an island east of Madagascar, almost 1,700 kilometres from the African continent. Following the Bougainville brand, a second house was launched in 2018: Oaks & Âmes. While the former distils its rums classically from molasses, the latter produces them from pure sugar cane juice in the style of rhums agricoles. Those accustomed to the ‘sweet’ Spanish rum style will find the VSOP almost irritatingly delicate. In any case, the 2015 Vintage 9 years old in the Soul Series is a wonderfully floral, pure rum without any cosmetics. But the Bougainville Single Cask 2013, which matured for ten years in Pedro Ximénez casks, is more complex and develops greater pressure.
4. Kavalan Single Malt Whisky Solist Cask Strength Vinho Barrique
Taiwan is now one of the most dynamic whisky producers in the world. In 2002, the state monopoly on spirits production was abolished on the island off the coast of mainland China. In 2008, the Kavalan distillery, founded in 2005, presented its first whisky. Within a very short time, the company won all the major awards for its products. In 2015, for example, Solist Vinho Barrique was named the world’s best whisky of the year at the annual blind tasting of the World Whiskies Awards.
Two factors are central to this: the subtropical climate, which leads to significantly greater evaporation in the casks. Because of the much faster maturation, Kavalan therefore does not include an age statement. The other is the early collaboration of the late Dr Jim Swan, whom some have called the ‘Einstein of whisky’. Among other things, he is credited with developing STR casks (= shaving, toasting and re-charring), which result in very subtle notes. These may also be the secret of Vinho Barrique, which was matured in Portuguese red wine casks. My sample comes from a single cask (bottle 77/151) bottled at cask strength (57.1%, no colouring, no chill filtration). Certainly an outstanding whisky, long-lasting, pure and complex, with cocoa, exotic fruits and roasted almonds. It has what it takes to become a great classic!
5. Taichung Distillery Single Grain Whisky Wheat Bourbon Cask Cask Strength
Kavalan is certainly not the only producer of premium whiskies in Taiwan. The state-owned Taiwan Tobacco & Liquor Corporation has several whisky distilleries and brands under its umbrella. Founded in 1901 under Japanese occupation, it opened the Nantou Distillery after the monopoly was lifted in 2008. Today, it produces the Omar (good single malts with bourbon, sherry or peated finishing) and Yushan (clean, modern blended and single malt whiskies) brands. In addition, there is Taichung, which cites 1919 as the founding date for its distillery. It is not entirely clear whether whisky was already being produced at that time – after all, the first Japanese whisky distillery did not open until 1923. After 1945, the name changed between Taichung Winery and Taichung Brewery. Be that as it may, the new era began in 2010 with the first new brands. The speciality: cask strength single grain whiskies, made from sorghum (!) or wheat, for example. My bottle was matured in bourbon casks and came in cask strength (58.5%, bottle 133/133, distilled 06/16, bottled 08/2023). Very nice spice, with some sweetness and wood aromas, lots of power, good complexity and medium length.
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Feature photo: © Bar Convent Berlin
All other images: Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
