History
The house was founded in 1930 by Marcel Ployer and Yvonne Jacquemart in Ludes, south of Reims. As early as December 1930, it advertised itself as “owner of Premiers Crus vineyards in Ludes” in the daily newspaper “Les Dernières nouvelles de Strasbourg”: two bottles of Champagne sec, two demi-sec, and two nature for a total of 90 francs. In 1947, the business moved to its current location. In 1950, their son Gérard Ployer, who had studied oenology in Beaune, joined the business. He took over the business in 1957, but the economic crisis and inheritance taxes following the death of his mother forced him to sell all but three hectares of the vineyards. Since the 1988 harvest, Gérard has been supported by his daughter Laurence. She had initially studied biology and pursued a career in gastronomy. But now she was starting an apprenticeship with her father. A few years later, she was in charge of wine production and sales. Always strong in exports, the name Ployez-Jacquemart was now regularly mentioned by international wine critics.
However, in 2002, Gérard passed away and Claude retired. In 2004, Christophe Prieux’s Prieux Group purchased the Maison. His family came from Ludes, and as an entrepreneur based in Reims, he had built up Jardiland, France’s leading garden supply chain. In order to be less dependent on seasonal business, he first invested in the hotel industry and then, in 2004, in champagne production. In 2007, Prieux acquired a 34.8 percent stake in the (much larger) champagne house Gardet in the neighboring village of Chigny-Les-Roses, before taking it over almost completely in 2010. Laurence Ployez, now Ployez-Krommydas, continued to be responsible for champagne production as chef de cave and and has also been involved in the management of the house in various roles. Since 2017, she is now the general manager of Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart – and since 2020 of the Hotel & Restaurant Chateau de la Marjolaine in nearby Essômes-sur-Marne.
Style
The Premier Cru commune of Ludes belongs to the western part of the Montagne de Reims hills. Here, the geology is not as uniform and the hills are more folded than in Mailly or Verzenay. In addition, many vineyards face north. Accordingly, in addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay also grows here – and above all Meunier, which accounts for a good half of the vineyard area. Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart grapes come mainly from here, the neighboring villages of Mailly, Chigny-Les-Roses, and Villedommange, as well as Chardonnay from Vertus in the Côtes des Blancs. No wonder that all three main grape varieties of Champagne together determine the house’s portfolio. The vineyards are certified according to the two sustainability standards HVE and VDC. The house understands the importance of excellent table companions, and Laurence Ployez’s strong gastronomic influence is certainly responsible for this. “I love fruity wines,” says the cellar master, “with clear aromas that express a natural balance between minerality and acidity, so that they remain lively.”
Apart from that, the winery, which buys some of its grapes, works with a distinctly artisanal approach. After double pre-clarification, the grapes are vinified separately according to grape variety and plot. Depending on the cuvée, different containers, steel or wood, serve for vinification. Traditional yeasts are used for fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is handled according to circumstances. Only wines from steel tanks are lightly filtered, while wines aged in wood are not. The house is particularly proud of its “sur pointe” bottle fermentation, i.e., upside down (which is where the name of this website comes from). The house’s premium cuvées are transferred to this bottle position after 24 months “sur lattes.” With this storage method, which can last between six and 15 years, the champagne has less contact with yeast. Ployez-Jacquemart expects this to result in more freshness and clarity, as well as better storage stability. In order to preserve the natural expression of the wine, minimal dosage is added.
Portfolio
The house’s range comprises nine cuvées, whose logo and labels were designed by founder Marcel himself. Even the four non-vintage champagnes make a statement as Extra Brut. The Extra Quality Brut has the highest dosage at 5 grams. Its blend consists of all three grape varieties, the proportions of which can vary greatly. Extra Brut Rosé is a Rosé d’Assemblage and is usually the youngest cuvée. Here, too, the blend varies, but as a rule, the vins clairs are blended with 16 percent red wine from Mailly aged in wood. The Blanc de Blancs Passion Extra Brut is a Chardonnay cuvée, 51 percent of which comes from the base year, is aged in wood, and has had malolactic fermentation blocked. Added to this are 49 percent wines from the previous year. Towering above these is the rare anniversary cuvée for the 90th birthday, the Granite Extra Brut. It combines 12 great vintages from 1976 to 2013 and embodies the memory of the Maison.
The vintage champagnes are available as either Blanc de Blancs (BdB) or Blanc de Noirs (BdN). The former is available as both Extra Brut Vintage and Dosage Zéro. The latter is available exclusively as Extra Brut. Interestingly, there is currently a six-year difference between the two wines: both BdB wines are from 2012, while the BdN is from 2018. The BdB is a blend of wines from Puisieulx, Cuis, and Bisseuil, the latter partly aged in wood and without malo. The BdN, on the other hand, is a blend of Ludes (Meunier) and Mailly (Pinot Noir) in roughly equal proportions. Lisse d’Harbonville Millésime Brut is the small house’s prestige cuvée with very long bottle fermentation. Two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Pinot Noir, aged entirely in wood, without malolactic fermentation, fining, or filtration. And finally, there is the Parcelle AB 390 Extra-Brut Vintage (20% in wood/non-malo), named after the cadastral number of a parcel in Ludes belonging to the Maison, planted exclusively with Meunier vines planted in 1955.
The Tasting
First, a preliminary remark: All Ployez-Jacquemart champagnes resemble great wines in that they change significantly when exposed to oxygen. The Chardonnay-dominated Extra Quality Brut (62%Ch|24%PM|14%PN, deg. 01/2025) expresses all the freshness and class of its base vintage 2019. Granny Smith apple, lime zest, and sourdough in the bouquet, relatively lean with prominent acidity, florett instead of sabre (90 P.). The tender salmon-colored Extra Brut Rosé (48%Ch|31%PN|21%PM, 76 percent from 2021, deg. 12/2024) is also very fresh. It displays red fruits, rhubarb, mandarin, and fresh herbs on the nose. Good length and some fruit sweetness on the palate, despite a dosage of just 4.5 g. A lovely aperitif rosé (90 points). Extra Brut Passion (deg. 12/2024), on the other hand, falls a little short. Is it because of the difficult base year 2017? Very pale and still very yeasty bouquet with ripe apples, unripe apricots, and a hint of honey. Emphatically tart on the palate. Although lively, with a fine mousse and quite creamy and powerful, it also has a somewhat hollow core (89 points).
The Extra Brut Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2012 (deg. 03/2023) is in a league of its own. Lemon cream, roasted hazelnuts, and biscotti on the nose. Powerful yet elegant and only subtly creamy on the palate. Very lively and clear: an outstanding champagne that also impresses as a great Chardonnay wine (93 P.). The Extra Brut Vintage Blanc de Noirs 2018 (deg. 05/2024) is a coposition of 60 percent Meunier and 40 percent Pinot Noir. It seems a touch more one-dimensional. The bouquet features pomelo, apples, raspberries, vine leaves, and cashews. Very harmonious on the palate, despite or perhaps because of a certain phenolic character, and with a surprising lightness. However, due to the vintage, it lacks a little tension (92 points).
The clear highlight is Liesse d’Harbonville Millésime 2005 Brut (deg. 05/2024, with 3–5 grams of dosage, actually Extra Brut). Pale yellow with green reflections, some citrus, stone fruits, and white bread in the restrained bouquet. Very fine, lively perlage and, despite being aged in wooden barrels, hardly creamy, but with enormous pressure and a lot of power. Very lively acidity and bone dry, a magnificent accompaniment to food. Ends a little short, but with salty minerality (95 points). One of the few champagne cuvées for which I actually recommend decanting.
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