History
The roots of the Franck Bonville champagne house date back to around 1900. At that time, shortly after the phylloxera crisis, Alfred Bonville acquired several vineyards in Oger and the surrounding area, the origin of the Bonville family. Together with his son Franck, he then purchased a winery with multi-story cellars dating from the 19th century in the center of Avize in 1937. The wines were initially sold to négociants. Immediately after the war, the first champagnes were bottled under the label “Champagne Bonville Père et Fils.” From the 1959 harvest onwards, production ran under the name “Franck Bonville.” Gilles Bonville and his wife Ingrid, the next generation, modernized production in the 1970s. First, enamel tanks replaced the wooden vats, and in the 1990s, stainless steel made its way into the cellar. The cellar was enlarged and two 8,000 kg presses were built. During this time, Champagne Franck Bonville began exporting to Germany and Belgium.
After studying viticulture and graduating in oenology in Reims, Olivier Bonville initially worked in Corsica and Germany. In 1997, he joined his parents’ winery as the fourth generation of the family. In the 2000s, the vineyard area was expanded. Together with his wife Delfine Cazals (from the Claude Cazals champagne house), he founded the small trading company Champagne Camille Bonville in 2006. Sustainable production has been in place since 2011 and HVE certification was obtained in 2016. The estate is currently undergoing a gradual conversion to organic farming. In 2020, his son-in-law Ferdinand Ruelle-Dudel joined the business. He had initially studied aerospace and worked for Airbus for several years. Eventually, he caught the wine bug and embarked on a crash course around the world. Today, Ferdinand Ruelle-Dudel and Olivier Bonville run the business together. The latter is primarily responsible for champagne production, while the former is in charge of sales and marketing. This included the remarkable brand relaunch in 2022.
Style
Franck Bonville’s champagnes are strongly influenced by their terroir. In this case, that means the heart of the Côte des Blancs. The family’s vineyards cover around 80 plots in four Grand Cru communes, totaling 15.35 hectares. Avize is the largest plot at 6.32 hectares, and the plots are spread across hillsides and slopes. This is where the highly structured, mineral-rich base wines come from. Oger follows closely behind with 5.97 hectares. Here, too, the estate is spread across different micro-terroirs, which are more exotic and generous in expression. The 2.26 hectares in Cramant, on the other hand, are located on the border with Avize. Therefore, the wines are not bottled separately as cru, but are blended into the Grand Cru Brut. The 0.80 hectares in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger are different. These are located in three lieu-dits on the border between the slope and the plain, where the marine clay soils are particularly aromatic. For this reason, they are used exclusively in the Cuvée Pur Mesnil.
Harvesting takes place quite late, with “ripeness is more important than acidity” being the motto here. In keeping with the terroir approach, the grapes are gently pressed and the base wines are vinified separately for each plot. Stainless steel dominated for a long time. Gradually, small, used 228-liter barrels from Meursault and 600-liter demi-muids were introduced, in which the dosage (de tirage and d’expédition) is now matured, as well as some reserve wines. The single-vineyard cuvée Les Belles Voyes is aged entirely in wood. In the future, the winery would like to make greater use of wood to produce more complex cuvées. Malolactic fermentation is always carried out. Bottle fermentation lasts just under two years for the basic cuvée, but four and a half years for Unisson and the Pur range. For the vintage and the Parcellaire cuvée, it is extended to six and a half years. The dosage is between 1.7 and a maximum of 5.8 grams, so it is always Extra Brut. The transparency on the back label is exemplary. The Pur range even notes the respective dates for pressing, tirage, and dégorgement.
Portfolio
Until a few years ago, Champagne Franck Bonville had ten cuvées. Following a brand relaunch, the portfolio has been reduced to seven bottlings, all Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru. The rosé is now sold under the Odysée 319 brand name. This is only logical, as the Pinot Noir comes from Paul Déthune in Ambonnay. Apart from that, the Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru is now the house’s basic cuvée. Like all other champagnes in the range, it is a single-varietal Chardonnay, in this case from three vintages. Otherwise, Franck Bonville only produces mono-crus. This starts with the Unisson Grand Cru, made exclusively from grapes from Avize (half from the current vintage and half from the previous year). This is, so to speak, the house’s signature champagne. This is followed exclusively by vintage champagnes. First and foremost is the classic Millésime Grand Cru, where only a glance at the back label reveals that it is also a mono-cru from Avize.
Mono-Crus from Avize, Oger, and Mesnil make up the Pur line, of which there are only 2,000 bottles each. It was introduced with the 2012 vintage and is currently at 2018. Pur Mesnil 2018 is a composition from the Les Coullemets, Les Zalieux, Le Tilleul, and Les Hautes Mottes parcels. The Pur Oger is dominated by the Lieu-dit Les Rumignies. It lies in the center of a depression that almost resembles a natural amphitheater, defining the distinctive terroir of Oger. In 2018, it is complemented by parcels from Les Noyerots at the foot of the hill. Finally, Pur Avize, the younger brother of the Millésime, is a selection of plots from the middle of the slope, the “heart of the terroir.” Specifically: Les Avats, Les Chapelles, and Les Maladries. Finally, Les Belles Voyes comes from a single vineyard in Oger. The vines here are located on the upper slope of Oger. They are the oldest on the estate and belong to the historic family property.
Tasting
The Grand Cru Brut (dég. 9/24) kicks things off, currently composed of 2022 (40%), 2020 (40%) and 2018 (20%). A lovely aperitif champagne that balances the hot vintages of its base wines with phenolic notes. Pale yellow in the glass, with lively perlage. Peach, mango, a hint of yogurt, and biscuit on the nose. Medium-bodied on the palate with soft acidity, well-balanced, and delicate bitter notes (90p). Unisson (deg. 6/2024), on the other hand, combines two complementary vintages, 2018 and 2017. The aromas are more strongly influenced by the yeast, with citrus, pineapple, and almonds. The texture is creamier, denser, and overall much more complex (91–92p). Pur Avize 2018 is very fresh and will only be available in stores shortly in this bottling (deg. 11/2024). The champagne is still restless, but the slight yogurt aroma dissipates quickly. The nose is floral, but also has citrus and a hint of pineapple and brioche. On the palate, it is still closed, structured, and quite vinous, but with a remarkable mineral background (92p).
Pur Mesnil 2018 shares the ripe grapes, disgorging date, and subtle effervescence with the Avize. However, the two champagnes are quite different in terms of aroma. Here, there are hints of apple and orange marmalade in the bouquet. This slightly “dark” touch also meets an aromatic, salty background on the palate. The acidity is soft, but there is potential that will unfold in the future (93p). 2016 was not an easy year for Chardonnay, but Millésime 2016 (deg. 9/24) is straightforward, precise, and perfectly balanced. Lively but fine mousse, aromas of star fruit, green apple and spices. More elegant than expressive on the palate, but with plenty of depth. Very harmonious (94p). Les Belles Voyes 2016 (deg. 2/24) differs from its siblings with its dark golden reflections in the glass. Oxidative nose with peach, toast, roasted almonds and a hint of Münster cheese. Powerful and creamy on the palate with good acidity (93–94p). A lovely accompaniment to food!
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