History
Viticulture in the Gonet family goes back a good 200 years. A legacy that has been passed down from father to son for seven generations. The progenitor of the house, Pierre-Charles, is first mentioned in a marriage certificate from Vertus in 1830, when he was still producing red and white still wines, today’s Coteaux champenois. Charles Innocent (1841-1919), produced champagne for the first time. His son Charles married the winegrower’s daughter Marie-Louise Gardien and moved the business to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in 1910. While his wife cultivated the vineyards, he marketed the production at trade fairs throughout France. It was only after the Second World War that champagne became the main focus of production. His son Jacques Gonet successfully established it in the circles of top Parisian gastronomy, for example at Lenôtre or Lucas Carton’s restaurant.
His son Philippe in turn initially worked as an agronomist and teacher at the Avize wine high school before taking over his parents’ business in 1971. He then founded Champagne Philippe Gonet in 1972. His marriage to Denise Cellier, a winemaker from Dormans, significantly increased the vineyard area. He also began exporting his wines to Europe. However, Gonet died in 1990 at the age of 53 and the business was initially run by his widow. The children joined the family business in 1993, when they were just over 20 years old. Son Pierre had passed his BTS viti-oeno in Beaune, while daughter Chantal actually wanted to work in the aerospace industry. But after finishing the DTO (diploma wine technician) in Dijon and working in Singapore and Florida, she turned her attention to exports. Together, they finally took over Champagne Philippe Gonet in 2021. Today, Philippe Gonet is Technical Director and Chantal Gonet Brégeon is responsible for finance and sales.
Style
Philippe Gonet is a house from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. This means that Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs takes centre stage. But because of the family history, the vineyard holdings are more complex than one might expect. Of course, Le Mesnil forms the centrepiece with 13 plots from nine different vineyards covering 4.5 hectares. First and foremost: Les Hauts Jardins, planted in 1929 in field selection, and Mont Joly, planted in 1960. There are also sites in Vertus and Oger, as well as in Vindes on the Côte de Sézanne to the south. Quantitatively significant are also areas in Montgueux near Troyes as well as La Chapelle Monthodon and Le Breuil on the Marne south of Dormans. Most recently, property from Pinot Noir plantations in Fontaine-sur-Ay in the hills north-east of Ay was also added. In order to secure more red wine grapes for production, the estate took on the status of négociant in 2001. However, purchases account for less than 20 per cent.
The areas are managed in a certified sustainable manner in accordance with the HVE3 and VDC guidelines. No herbicides or insecticides come into play. The grapes are pressed slowly by two 4000-kilogram vertical presses. The first fermentation takes place parcel by parcel in small, thermo-regulated 50-hectolitre stainless steel tanks. Pierre Gonet purchased these after he joined the company to replace the old enamelled fermentation vats. Bottle ageing then lasts three years for the non-vintage cuvées and five years or longer for the vintages. The dosage is between three and seven grams, with the exception of the 3210, which has no dosage. In the warm year of 1995, Pierre Gonet bought new barriques and developed a cuvée that was the forerunner of today’s Ter Blanc and Ter Noir. Unlike the rest of the portfolio, malolactic fermentation is blocked for these two champagnes. The quality of Champagne Gonet is very homogeneous. These are carefully produced champagnes at a high level that are a precise reflection of their terroir.
Portfolio
Philippe Gonet’s range has expanded significantly in recent years. Just over 20 years ago, it consisted of a Brut Réserve (also available as a Grande Réserve) and a Rosé. Above these stand one Blanc de Blancs without and one with vintage. And finally, as a Cuvée de Prestige, a Special Club, also a Vintage Chardonnay. A Cuvée Or Brut without vintage but with extended bottle storage, which was introduced at short duration, was abandoned. Today, the Brut Réserve (60 PN | 30 Ch | 10 PM) with a good 30 per cent reserve wines is still at the base, along with a Rosé (also 30 per cent reserve wines). Unlike usual, both are completely different. The base wines for the Rosé are 90 per cent Chardonnay, plus 10 per cent red wine from Vertus. Signature is now the name of the The Blanc de Blanc, it also remains on the lees for a good three years and contains 30 per cent reserves
The Vintage (currently 2017) consists of 100 per cent Grand Cru parcels, specifically 13 parcels from Le Mesnil and Oger. A good two and a half years longer on the lees compared to the NV and 2 grams less dosage. As their first new cuvée, the siblings have created Roy Soleil Brut. This is a Blanc de Blancs as a mono cru from Le Mesnil. But non-millésimée with 30 per cent reserves and aged for six months in 600-litre barrels. The new prestige cuvée Belemnita Extra Brut followed with the premiere vintage 2002 from the two top parcels in Le Mesnil. 3210 means: 3 years of maturation, 2 terroirs (half from Montgueux and half from Le Mesnil), 1 grape variety (Chardonnay) and 0 dosage. It has matured longer on the lees and, as a non-vintage, contains 30 per cent reserves.
Ter Blanc and Ter Noir are aged for six months in 6,000 litre wooden barrels. They are blends from three vintages and three parcels each. The Blanc (100 per cent Chardonnay) from Le Mesnil, Oger and Ludes. The Noir from Le Mesnil (Ch), Montgueux (PN) and Monthodon (PM).
Tasting
Pinot Noir dominates noticeably the Brut Réserve (base 2020, deg. 12/23). Green apple, citrus and toast on the nose, accessible on the palate, with good depth and appropriate acidity. With air, it becomes even more precise (90 p.). The Pinot Noir from Vertus gives the Rosé Brut (base 2020, deg. 11/23) plenty of power, while the Chardonnay adds elegance. Aeration has an even stronger effect here. Initially somewhat understated, it is noticeably more impressive and balanced the next day (90 p.). Signature Blanc de Blancs Brut (base 2020, deg. 12/23) shows a light straw yellow colour in the glass and is slender, almost puristic. The acidity is very well integrated, everything is ‘in its place’, an excellent aperitif champagne (92 p.). 3210 (base 2018, deg. 11/23) is a completely different type. This champagne is also quite austere and even shows a rather tart, herbaceous nose. Here, it’s the texture and salinity that drive the champagne (90 p.).
2017 Millésime Brut (deg. 12/23) is actually an Extra Brut with 5 grams of dosage and comes from a difficult year. The champagne has not quite found its feet yet. Restrained bouquet, some citrus and brioche. Very soft perlage, quite slender and yet very vinous (91 p.). Ter Blanc Extra-Brut (2014/15/16, deg. 01/23) shows lime, green apple and vanilla on the nose. On the palate, an exciting contrast between the striking acidity and the creamy texture thanks to the subtle use of wood (92 p.). Ter Noir Extra-Brut (2013/14/15, deg. 7/23) is even darker, including a delicate smoky note. Soft mouthfeel with good length, but without the lively playfulness of the Ter Blanc (91 p.).
Roy Soleil Brut (here too, only 5 grams of dosage, base 2019, deg. 11/23) is strongly reminiscent of the Signature in its pure freshness. It also has a delicately bitter touch of grapefruit and is more complex on the palate, probably not least because of the use of wooden barrels (93 p). Belemnita 2009 Extra-Brut (deg. 01/23) takes its name from the chalk formation prevalent in Mesnil. Still youthful with complex citrus and nut aromas on the nose. Very present acidity for the vintage with great inner richness. Will continue to develop (94 p)!
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Stefan Pegatzky / Time Tunnel Images
